Decorin - Skin Tightening, Anti-Scarring, Anti-Cancer?

Decorin - an important proteglycan that possess collagen rebuilding, anti-scarring and anti-cancer effects. In the dermis,  decorin attaches itself to collagen strands ensuring uniform and well-organized collagen structure.
     Recent studies provide even more insight into a complex role of decorin in skin biology. For example, scientists believed that decorin can be found only in the dermis, because that is where it can exhibit its collagen building power. However, in a recent study decorin genes were also discovered in the epidermal cells (keratinocyes). This finding suggests that this molecule plays an important role in the regulation of skin's homeostasis on all levels.
     Another interesting study that should be concern to all of us is that it was also discovered that decorin has the surprising ability to inhibit the invasion of malignant melanoma cells by inducing acidification. Upon contact with decorin, aggressive malignant melanoma cells became so acidic that they stuck to the dermal matrix and were unable to move.
   Another study demonstrated that decorin decreases in aged skin as well as in photodamaged skin. This can explain a progressive disorganization of collagen fibers as well as an increased susceptibility to malignant tumors.

What can we do to increase decorin in our skin or at last delay its age-related decline? Presently, only one ingredient used in cosmetic products has been shown to increase decorin – the tri-peptide GHK-Cu. This peptide has been scientifically proven to tighten collagen in aging skin, tighten loose skin, reduce wrinkles and improve skin elasticity as well as exhibit anti-tumor activity.  

Velez-Delvalle C, Marsch-Moreno M, Castro-Muñozledo F, Kuri-Harcuch W. Decorin gene expression and its regulation in human keratinocytes. Biochem Biophys Res Commun. 2011;22;411(1):168-74.

Stock C, Jungmann O, Seidler DG Decorin and chondroitin-6 sulfate inhibit B16V melanoma cell migration and invasion by cellular acidification. J Cell Physiol. 2011;226(10):2641-50. doi: 10.1002/jcp.22612.

Oh JH, Kim YK, Jung JY, Shin JE, Chung JH. Changes in glycosaminoglycans and related proteoglycans in intrinsically aged human skin in vivo. Exp Dermatol. 2011;20(5):454-6. doi: 10.1111/j.1600-0625.2011.01258.x.

Siméon A, Wegrowski Y, Bontemps Y, Maquart FX.Expression of glycosaminoglycans and small proteoglycans in wounds: modulation by the tripeptide-copper complex glycyl-L-histidyl-L-lysine-Cu(2+).J Invest Dermatol. 2000;115(6):962-8

Product of the month - Super Cop Cream

        Super Cop Cream contains a powerful combination of second generation copper peptides (Skin Remodeling Copper Peptides - SRCPs) and natural moisturizers with antioxidants. When used together with Exfoliating Hydroxy Acids (EHAs), this product provides astonishing skin remodeling and rejuvenating effects.
     SRCPs have been scientifically proven to tighten loose skin, increase collagen and improve its structure, speed up skin remodeling and recharge the skin's own stem cells. They also ensure prompt removal of damaged structures as well as prevent age-related skin degradation due to their balancing effect on the skin's remodeling enzymes: matrix proteases.
     To achieve proper moisturization, the cream contains squalane (a natural lubricating and protective component of skin oil that diminishes with age), aloe barbadensis juice and gel (Aloe Vera gel) and amino acids leucine and glycine - both of which are important components of The Natural Moisturizing Factor (NMF).
     A protective blend of natural antioxidants added to Super Cop includes lycopene and lutein, mixed tocopherols and tocotrienols and coenzyme Q-10. Lycopene and lutein are two potent antioxidant compounds found in tomatoes and that posses anti-cancer and anti-wrinkle effects.
Mixed tocopherols, and tocotrienols belong to the vitamin E family and offer improved protection than that of Vitamin E (alpha-tocopherol) alone. Finally, coenzyme Q10 is an antioxidant found in mitochondria, the power stations of our cells. By protecting mitochondria from oxidative damage, coenzyme Q boosts our skin's energy level and slows down aging.
     Over the years, Super Cop has proven to be an excellent tool for combating age-related changes in the skin and achieving a beautiful, radiant complexion. To achieve the maximum benefit, this product can be used after EHA based serums such as: LacSal serum (10% lactic+salycilic acid), Exfol serum (2% salicylic) or Lactic Power 10 (10% lactic acid) .
Use salicylic acid products on oily and combination skin and lactic acid
products on dry and sensitive skin types.

August Newsletter

From Defense to Offense –The Truth About Chemical Sunscreens

Health advisers touting the benefits of sunscreens with high SPF always forget to tell you that these so called protective skin products contain a high concentration of chemical UV-absorbers, which can end up inside your body. Many of those chemical compounds are endocrine disrupters and have estrogenic qualities.

In one study, researchers investigated skin absorption of three chemical UV-filters commonly used in sun protective cosmetics – benzophenone-3, octyl-methoxycinnamate and 3-(4-methylbenzylidene) camphor. Immediately after the first application, their level in blood plasma was negligible. However, in only 2 hours all three chemicals were detected in plasma. After whole body application of 2 mg/cm² of each sunscreen, the chemicals were detected in plasma even after 96 hours.

Some people believe that they can avoid the harmful effects of sunscreens by choosing natural reflective UV-protectors such as titanium dioxide. However, this is only partially true. In reality, good safety records exists only for pure reflective titanium dioxide in its natural form. The downside of using this form of titanium dioxide is that it adds a whitish hue to the skin, which is now considered undesirable.In their efforts to avoid a product that will give a "pasty" look, most modern cosmetic products contain nanoparticles of titanium dioxide, which have different chemical properties. One issue with this is that such chemicals can enter the skin cells. In fact, one study showed significant uptake of titanium dioxide nanoparticles in skin cells. At the same time, the cells’ viability and antioxidant level plummeted, while oxidative damage and cell death soared.

Another study demonstrated that titanium dioxide nanoparticles sized 4 nm, 10 nm, 21 nm, 25 nm and 60 nm induced free radical formation in cultured human skin cells, as well as decreased viability.

Thus, national obsession with sunscreens displaying high SPF ratings as well as consumers’ desire for invisible and easy to apply sun protective products (not to mention the advice to reapply those products every two hours) seem very dangerous in the light of recent data on skin penetration, oxidative damage and endocrine disruptive qualities of chemical and nano-sized UV-absorbers. Therefore, those who want to protect their skin should stick with the old fashioned mineral sunscreens, avoiding chemical UV-absorbers as well as nano-versions of the mineral ones.

Finally, don’t forget that a certain amount of sunlight is highly beneficial for your skin and can infuse your body with health and vigor. Sensible suntanning in the absence of alien chemicals is the key to beautiful skin.

References.

Janjua N.R. et al. Sunscreens in human plasma and urine after repeated whole-body topical application. J Eur Acad Dermatol Venereol. 2008;22(4):456-61.

Shukla R.K. et al. Titanium dioxide nanoparticles induce oxidative stress-mediated apoptosis in human keratinocyte cells. J. Biomed. Nanotechnol. 2011;7(1):100-1.

Xue C Nano titanium dioxide induces the generation of ROS and potential damage in HaCaT cells under UVA irradiation. J Nanosci Nanotechnol. 2010;10(12):8500-7.

Better Suntan

Copper Sun Tanning and Firming Body Lotion - a sensible choice

Knowing that many sunscreen products not only fail to protect our skin from UV rays, but that they also contain alien chemicals that can increase skin damage leads to the question: How can you protect your skin? The answer is: choose wisely.

An ideal sun protective product should provide adequate protection against both UVB and UVA radiation, while blocking just enough UV-rays to still allow your skin receive beneficial sunlight for a light tan and vitamin D synthesis. Remember, no sunscreen can protect your skin if you fry it under the sun for hours. Those who promise you that kind of protection are lying. And the price that you pay for sunburn-free time on the beach may be too high, especially since your skin can be damaged without having any signs of sunburn.

 So to give you peace of mind as well as a beautiful tan, Skin Biology developed a revolutionary sun product Copper Sun Tanning and Firming Body lotion.

The first line of defense found in the Copper Sun Tanning Lotion is copper peptides including the GHK-Cu peptide. These potent peptides protect skin cells from oxidative damage by increasing the skin’s own antioxidant defense and by capturing and neutralizing many toxic products of peroxidation. They also speed up skin recovery and help produce new collagen and elastin in your skin, thereby reducing wrinkles.

The second line of defense is pure reflective titanium dioxide, which protects the skin from UVA and UVB radiations by diffusing sunlight from the skin. This UV-protector is non toxic and does not penetrate the skin as do other alien chemicals in sunscreen products.

The third line of defense is a unique mixture of naturally occurring protective antioxidants. These molecules capture free radicals and detoxify them before they have a chance to do any damage. This antioxidant mixture includes a variety of naturally occurring vitamin E forms – tocopherols and tocotrienols. They are much more potent that just alpha-tocopherol that is commonly used as vitamin E in other products. Lutein and licopene are two potent antioxidants found in tomatoes and some other veggies. They not only capture damaging free radicals, but also help vitamin E maintain its activity. Coenzyme Q is an antioxidant that shields energy producing organells  (mitochondria) in your skin.  As a result, your cells have more energy to repair the damage.

Finally, our lotion has moisturizing and soothing properties due to squalane – a healing bio-oil found on skin surface that has protective properties. It also contains aloe vera gel with natural moisturizing and healing power.

As a result, Copper Sun Tanning Lotion is a product with which you can confidently entrust your skin protection.

It gently covers your skin, soothing and moisturizing it. Its sun protective compounds stay on the surface of the skin, while its restorative, firming and healing ingredients will penetrate deeper, repairing underlying damage. It guards you from the most damaging consequences of UV-irradiation: free radical damage. And it gently diffuses and reflects  sunrays, without interfering with your beautiful tan!

Active ingredients: Copper peptides, squalane, titanium dioxide, allantoin, lavender oil, aloe vera gel, GHK copper, tocopherol and mixed tocotrienols, licopene, coenzyme Q-10, lutein.

Remember! To fully obtain the benefit from our Sun Tanning and Protective products, use sunlight in moderation. Avoid excessive sunbathing as well as mid-day sun. Morning hours are the best for healthy suntan

Gold to copper?

Cosmetic products containing gold never fail to attract consumers’ interest. Packaged into luxuriant containers and priced accordingly, such products promise miraculous rejuvenation and beautification of the skin. They sell well. 

Yet, scientists have been long puzzled by the biological effects of gold on skin. On one hand, gold has no known biological function and often causes allergic reactions in a number of susceptible individuals, but on the other hand, gold salts have proved to be effective in alleviating many inflammatory conditions, such as arthritis. How they work, however, remained a mystery until the very recently.

In 2005 Stoyanov and Brown discovered that gold can activate a protein that mobilizes copper from its intracellular reserves. It turned out that the glamorous metal gold, was more likely just helping the cells of the body receive the necessary amount of its less alluring cousin: copper. If this is true, then it is quite possible that cosmetics containing gold may indeed provide other benefits beyond treatment of inflammation and aid in wound healing, wrinkles reduction and skin tightening all because of its ability to increase copper. But the high possibility of allergic skin reaction on gold remains a problem, especially since all those effects and more can be obtained safely (and with a better result) through the cosmetics containing tripeptide GHK-Cu – a natural regulator of copper in the skin and a well-known activator of skin healing and remodeling.

Copper complexes have been long used in therapy of inflammatory conditions such as arthritis with a great success. Recently, Professor Maibach at UCSF School of Medicine, University of California San Francisco demonstrated that copper in a form of GHK-Cu (glycyl-L-histidyl-L-lysine cuprate diacetate) can be used topically as an effective anti-inflammatory agent. In 48 hours, approximately 0.14 mg/copper per 1 cm² permeated skin from 0.68% GHK-Cu solution, while 0.29 mg was retained in the stratum corneum.  According to Maibach, this deposited copper will eventually become available too, contributing to a prolonged and gentle effect of the treatment.

Addressing the issue of copper toxicity, professor Maibach explained that any toxicity can be attributed only to an inorganic form of copper (copper I) while in the skin copper is bound to many proteins and peptides (copper peptides) that tightly control this metal. This form of copper (we, in Skin Biology, call it bio-copper) is absolutely safe and can be used to restore skin’s health.

Indeed, it has been shown that the skin desperately needs copper and that accelerating aging as well as many diseases are associated with its deficiency. The most important enzyme in the collagen synthesis is a copper dependent enzyme lysyl oxidase. Less copper means less collagen. Therefore, if you love you skin and hate wrinkles – you better make sure that your skin is getting enough copper.

Professor Maibach’s research demonstrated once more that GHK-Cu is an effective agent capable of restoring copper level in the skin. In addition, many benefits of copper in a form of the GHK-Cu tri-peptide make it a far more superior way of relieving inflammatory conditions, stimulating collagen and skin renewal, erasing wrinkles and plumping up the skin compared to gold salts. Even though, gold is so dear to people’s heart, we advise to eliminate a middle-man and treat your skin with a truly precious (at least from a biological point of view) metal, copper.

Stoyanov J.V., Brown N.L.The Escherichia coli copper-responsive copA promoter is activated by gold. J. Biol. Chem. 2005;17;278(3):1407-10

Hostynek J.J., Dreher F., Maibach H.I. Human skin retention and penetration of a copper tripeptide in vitro as function of skin layer towards anti-inflammatory therapy. Inflamm Res. 2010;59(11):983-8.

Uauy R., Olivares M., Gonzalez M. Essentiality of copper in humans. Am J Clin Nutr. 1998;67(5 Suppl):952S-959S

Szauter K.M., Cao T., Boyd C.D., Csiszar K. Lysyl oxidase in development, aging and pathologies of the skin. Pathol Biol (Paris). 2005;53(7):448-56.

Copper-peptides increase cell survival

Stress is harmful not only to people, but also to the cells in our bodies. Skin cells are especially vulnerable. Helen Sage from University of Washington, in Seattle, discovered that a protein called SPARC can help cells survive stressful conditions. Further investigation revealed that this quality is due to the fact that this protein contains the copper binding KKGHK peptide (GHK analog), which is released in case of an injury. Recently the same research group demonstrated that GHK peptides released from SPARC help restore blood supply to wounded areas. Researchers say that SPARC accumulates at the site of an injury, releasing copper peptides, which activate pro-survival and healing.

Weaver M.S., Workman G., Sage E. H. The Copper Binding Domain of SPARC Mediates Cell Survival in Vitro via Interaction with Integrin β1 and Activation of Integrin-linked Kinase^*J Biol Chem. 2008 August 15; 283(33): 22826–22837.

Heartburn medicine can age your skin

Can something as common as heartburn relief medicine accelerate your skin aging? Recent research points to such possibility. It appears that some of heartburn medicine reduces stomach acidity by inhibiting proton transport (proton pump inhibitors). However, the same substances may also block copper transport in the skin. Since our skin collagen synthesis depends on the enzyme called lysyl oxidase that weaves collagen fibers into strong and resilient supportive “strings” for our skin, chemicals that block copper transport, especially if taken over a long period of time, can hamper collagen formation and increase wrinkles. Adding more copper to your skin in a form of GHK-Cu is a safe and effective way to restore copper supply in the skin.

Namazi M.R., Jowkar F. Can proton pump inhibitors accentuate skin aging? Arch Med Res. 2010 Feb;41(2):147-8..

Product Highlight

Skin Signals Cream

This month our featured product is Skin Signals cream –a unique and highly efficient product for mature skin. Its impressive list of ingredients contains Skin Remodeling Copper Peptides (SRCPs) – such as copper enriched peptides from hydrolyzed soy protein as well as the tripeptide GHK-Cu. These peptides work together stimulating skin cell renewal, re-charging your skin’s stem cells, activating fibroblasts into collagen production, stimulating synthesis of decorin – a magical molecule that ensures that your collagen is beautifully arranged and functions properly, protects your skin from scar formation and even has anti-cancer activity.

You will find here also a building material for collagen and elastin synthesis in a form of enzymatically hydrolyzed collagen and elastin peptides. Nobody sets up to build a house without a building material, and by the same token no method of stimulation of collagen synthesis will work if your skin is lacking certain amino-acids that are required for collagen formation. With this cream, containing both collagen building agents and all material for collagen production, you can be certain that your skin will increase its collagen, becoming wonderfully supple and resilient. In addition, these peptides provide excellent moisturizing to your skin, making its smooth and radiant.

Squalane promotes skin healing and adds even more smoothness and softness to the skin. It also offers natural protection from damaging UV-rays by antioxidant action– just enough to allow you receiving sun benefits without developing wrinkles – this is the way natural squalane in skin oil works in your skin too. In addition this cream contains a wide assortment of natural antioxidants such as tocophersolan (vitamin E), mixed (alpha, beta, gamma, delta) tocopherols, and mixed (alpha, beta, gamma, delta) tocotrienols, ubiquinone (coenzyme Q-10), xanthophyll (lutein), lycopene. These substances guard your skin against free radicals, maintaining youthful and beautiful look of your skin.

 Finally, a skin healing essential oil from Lavandula angustifolia (lavender oil) infuses the cream with delicate aroma, which has natural pheromone action.

The combined action of skin remodeling copper peptides and natural antioxidants allows you to regain youthful suppleness of your skin without damaging or abusing it. By regulating “the cell-to-cell talk” and providing the right kind of signals, these molecules gently rejuvenate and beautify your skin, restoring regenerative balance and promoting skin health.