Scientifically speaking

Is copper in my cosmetic products dangerous?

This is an important question. Even though copper is absolutely vital and irreplaceable element that is involved in dozen of physiological processes, it may generate free radicals if hydrogen peroxide or ascorbic acid is present. Since free radicals can damage DNA and trigger cell death, prevention of such reactions is of outmost importance.

It has been long proposed that in the organism copper is immediately rendered harmless and transformed into innocuous bio-copper with the help of a number of small copper binding peptides. Because of their ability to safely wrap-up so much needed copper and to deliver it exactly where it is needed, such peptides ensure proper work of cellular machinery, producing significant reparative, rejuvenating and protective effects (which is exactly why you may want copper in your cosmetics). Recently, two studies confirmed the fact that copper is absolutely harmless and produces only beneficial effects, when bound to certain copper-peptides.

In one study, researchers investigated the structure and properties of the GHK-Cu complex. They proved, using a variety of methods that copper ions loses all ability to trigger free radical reactions, when bound to GHK. They also demonstrated that GHK-Cu can give away its copper ions as needed to support beneficial processes.

In another study, Japanese scientists established that a number of copper peptides including GGH peptide (Gly-Gly-His), which is similar to the GHK peptide, successfully prevented oxidative damage of DNA in the presence of copper, ascorbic acid and hydrogen peroxide.

When you eat copper-rich food, your food usually naturally contains copper binding peptides. Also, copper that passes into bloodstream quickly binds to large copper-carrying proteins, which carry it like cargo trains. However, when you use cosmetics, it is very important to make sure that it contains right kinds of copper binding proteins. In Skin Biology we use the GHK-Cu peptide, which has almost four decades of extensive research to back its safety and efficacy, as well as a second generation copper-peptides These peptides have well established skin remodeling and reparative power, as well as an unsurpassed ability to ensure complete safety and targeted delivery of copper ions. By selecting the right kind of ingredients, you can ensure that your skin will receive the full spectrum of benefit of copper – including wrinkle repair and new collagen synthesis – without any risk of side effects.

Hureau C., Eury H., Guillot R., Bijani C., Sayen S., Solari P.L., Guillon E., Faller P., Dorlet P.X-ray and solution structures of Cu(II) GHK and Cu(II) DAHK complexes: influence on their redox properties. Chem. Eur. J., 2011, 17, 10151-60

Yokawa K, Kagenishi T, Kawano T. Prevention of oxidative DNA degradation by copper-binding peptides. Biosci Biotechnol Biochem. 2011;75(7):1377-9.