Scientifically speaking

Stem cells from plants – do they work?

If you follow recent cosmetic innovations and are first to pack a cream or serum boasting a new and intriguing ingredient, you couldn’t miss an impressive newcomer – plant derived stem cells. According to cosmetic manufacturers they are endowed with a regenerative power, possess high antioxidant capacity, are able to invigorate and rejuvenate your cells thus turning your skin into a picture of youth and beauty. But just as it usually is with any novel cosmetic ingredient it is prudent to ask – do they actually work?

To answer this question, let’s first take a look at the human stem cells, which remain a fascination and a source of hope for scientists and general public alike. These cells are unique, because they are capable of differentiating into cell any of the body, helping to repair damaged organs and tissues. True stem cells have to be derived from human embryos – a source many people believe is unethical. Less controversial, but also somewhat less potent type of stem cells is called epidermal stem cells and can be derived from special areas in the skin, which contain undifferentiated, multipotent cells.

Not only stem cells are capable of differentiating into many other cells needed for repair, but they also produce important molecular regulators, which can stimulate grow and reverse some aging signs in adult cells. This is why cosmetic industry kept eyeing stem cell technology trying to find some way of using it. There are some companies that actually offer frozen stem cells, however, there is no way to prove what exactly their products contain and whether or not they can do any good.

This is why plant stem technology seems so promising. Plants contain stem cells in their meristem areas – special areas in the stem, roots and buds, from which new plant tissue grows. The easiest way to obtain these cells is to damage the plant tissue and then collect and culture the new growth tissue. Today meristem plant culture is available for many plants such as raspberry, apple, edelweiss, tomatoes, Echinacea etc. The advantages of such method is that the cells grow under fully controlled conditions, so you can make sure they do not contain pesticides, heavy metals and other toxins. It also allows sustainable eco-friendly practices, since it can grow cells from a small part of a plant, so a rare plant can be left intact in the wild.

Plant stem cells often contain the same biologically active compounds as the plants from which they are derived – often in higher concentrations. For example, tomato stem cell extract is more effective in detoxifying heavy metals than old fashioned tomato extract. In addition, they may contain growth factors and signal molecules that are typical for high-potency stem cells. Even though plants are very different from humans, it has been long established that many growth factors and other biologically active molecules work eually well in all cells regardless of the species.

However, at the present moment it is not clrear whether or not plant stem cells can do something beyond being an eco-friendly, clean and potent source of plant derived chemicals remains to be investigated.  Up to date there are no independent studies and clinical trials, which would support the idea that plant stem cells can indeed rejuvenate, stimulate and invigorate your skin’s stem cells and breathe new life into your old cells. So if this is your goal, we would advise you to complement your plant stem cells based products with ingredients that have been extensively studied and demonstrated their regulating and rejuvenating activity.

One of such ingredients is the tripeptide GHK-Cu that recently was shown to re-charge and reinvigorate epidermal stem cells, increasing their ability to repair the skin.   In addition, we now know that it prevents age-related silencing of many important human genes, increases collagen and glycosaminoglycan synthesis, protects skin from harmful free radicals, reduces inflammation and possesses many other vital rejuvenating activities.

In short, plant derived stem cells are attractive and potent ingredients, which may be more effective than conventional plant extracts, however, we need to wait for more studies to show whether or not they have rejuvenating power beyond the biological activity of their original plant source.

Scientifically speaking

The Silence of the Genes

In recent years, scientists became fascinated with a new mechanism of aging that works similarly for every organ and tissue. This new mechanism is called epigenetic modifications and imply changes in our DNA that result from impaired gene regulation. In other words epigenetic modifications are changes in the DNA that do not require rewriting of the genetic code. What happens is merely silencing or inhibition of a certain genes that are normally active in young tissues. This can affect for example repair enzymes that normally promptly fix any damage caused by environmental factors. It could be genes responsible for synthesis of collagen or other important proteins. Or it can be genes that produce anti-inflammatory substances. Today we know that many widespread toxins, including those that can be found in cosmetics, can silence those important genes increasing inflammation and speeding up aging. However, there are other compounds – some of them are also found in cosmetics – that can reverse these changes by reactivating silenced genes.

Recent studies showed that some well known plant antioxidants such as flavonoids that are long used in skin care for prevention of oxidative stress and inflammation can actually reverse harmful epigenetic changes. However, most plant compounds are active in relatively high concentrations and act better when consumed, not applied to the skin.  Another emerging epigenetic modifier is the tri-peptide GHK-Cu. More and more evidence points to the fact that this small molecule can be a new hero of anti-aging medicine. First, all experimental data indicates that its effects on the cells and tissues are very positive – it helps to regenerate tissues, repair damage and reverse many age-related changes. Second, it appears to control a large number of human genes. It even can re-activate some silenced genes. Third, it is active at a very low micro and nanomolar concentrations. And finally, it is able to pass the skin layers, which many other compounds cannot do. To the best of our knowledge, none of the other compound used in today’s cosmetics possesses all three qualities at once. So next time, you dab on your favorite GHK-Cu based cream, think of your genes that could be silenced by harmful environmental toxins, and all of a sudden, they have a VOICE. Once again, your skin can manufacture all the essential enzymes and proteins to remain beautiful and radiant.

Decorin - Skin Tightening, Anti-Scarring, Anti-Cancer?

Decorin - an important proteglycan that possess collagen rebuilding, anti-scarring and anti-cancer effects. In the dermis,  decorin attaches itself to collagen strands ensuring uniform and well-organized collagen structure.
     Recent studies provide even more insight into a complex role of decorin in skin biology. For example, scientists believed that decorin can be found only in the dermis, because that is where it can exhibit its collagen building power. However, in a recent study decorin genes were also discovered in the epidermal cells (keratinocyes). This finding suggests that this molecule plays an important role in the regulation of skin's homeostasis on all levels.
     Another interesting study that should be concern to all of us is that it was also discovered that decorin has the surprising ability to inhibit the invasion of malignant melanoma cells by inducing acidification. Upon contact with decorin, aggressive malignant melanoma cells became so acidic that they stuck to the dermal matrix and were unable to move.
   Another study demonstrated that decorin decreases in aged skin as well as in photodamaged skin. This can explain a progressive disorganization of collagen fibers as well as an increased susceptibility to malignant tumors.

What can we do to increase decorin in our skin or at last delay its age-related decline? Presently, only one ingredient used in cosmetic products has been shown to increase decorin – the tri-peptide GHK-Cu. This peptide has been scientifically proven to tighten collagen in aging skin, tighten loose skin, reduce wrinkles and improve skin elasticity as well as exhibit anti-tumor activity.  

Velez-Delvalle C, Marsch-Moreno M, Castro-Muñozledo F, Kuri-Harcuch W. Decorin gene expression and its regulation in human keratinocytes. Biochem Biophys Res Commun. 2011;22;411(1):168-74.

Stock C, Jungmann O, Seidler DG Decorin and chondroitin-6 sulfate inhibit B16V melanoma cell migration and invasion by cellular acidification. J Cell Physiol. 2011;226(10):2641-50. doi: 10.1002/jcp.22612.

Oh JH, Kim YK, Jung JY, Shin JE, Chung JH. Changes in glycosaminoglycans and related proteoglycans in intrinsically aged human skin in vivo. Exp Dermatol. 2011;20(5):454-6. doi: 10.1111/j.1600-0625.2011.01258.x.

Siméon A, Wegrowski Y, Bontemps Y, Maquart FX.Expression of glycosaminoglycans and small proteoglycans in wounds: modulation by the tripeptide-copper complex glycyl-L-histidyl-L-lysine-Cu(2+).J Invest Dermatol. 2000;115(6):962-8

Product of the month - Super Cop Cream

        Super Cop Cream contains a powerful combination of second generation copper peptides (Skin Remodeling Copper Peptides - SRCPs) and natural moisturizers with antioxidants. When used together with Exfoliating Hydroxy Acids (EHAs), this product provides astonishing skin remodeling and rejuvenating effects.
     SRCPs have been scientifically proven to tighten loose skin, increase collagen and improve its structure, speed up skin remodeling and recharge the skin's own stem cells. They also ensure prompt removal of damaged structures as well as prevent age-related skin degradation due to their balancing effect on the skin's remodeling enzymes: matrix proteases.
     To achieve proper moisturization, the cream contains squalane (a natural lubricating and protective component of skin oil that diminishes with age), aloe barbadensis juice and gel (Aloe Vera gel) and amino acids leucine and glycine - both of which are important components of The Natural Moisturizing Factor (NMF).
     A protective blend of natural antioxidants added to Super Cop includes lycopene and lutein, mixed tocopherols and tocotrienols and coenzyme Q-10. Lycopene and lutein are two potent antioxidant compounds found in tomatoes and that posses anti-cancer and anti-wrinkle effects.
Mixed tocopherols, and tocotrienols belong to the vitamin E family and offer improved protection than that of Vitamin E (alpha-tocopherol) alone. Finally, coenzyme Q10 is an antioxidant found in mitochondria, the power stations of our cells. By protecting mitochondria from oxidative damage, coenzyme Q boosts our skin's energy level and slows down aging.
     Over the years, Super Cop has proven to be an excellent tool for combating age-related changes in the skin and achieving a beautiful, radiant complexion. To achieve the maximum benefit, this product can be used after EHA based serums such as: LacSal serum (10% lactic+salycilic acid), Exfol serum (2% salicylic) or Lactic Power 10 (10% lactic acid) .
Use salicylic acid products on oily and combination skin and lactic acid
products on dry and sensitive skin types.